GAS COOKERS

Problem 1: Erratic Flames In The Gas Cooker

Gas hobs should give off stable blue flames if the burner is operating correctly. If the flames from your gas cooker look yellow or uneven, or if the flames look smaller than usual, this indicates that there is debris in the gas burners or jets.

How to Unblock Gas Hob Jets

This is a common problem with gas hobs. If one of your burners is sparking but not burning, or only half of a burner is lit, it means that the jets are likely to be blocked. This can happen by something as innocuous as starchy water overflowing onto it as well as general staining and mess.

The way to fix this has already been mentioned in the previous section. It is essentially step one of the how to clean your gas hob process. But we’ll go into a little bit more detail here.

On your gas hob, you will see a series of holes around the burner where gas normally shoots out from. Taking your paper clip, straight pin, needle or so on, you simply need to unclog those holes with it.

Do not use a toothpick or anything that could snap. If you use a toothpick and it snaps inside the burner, then you’ve got a serious blockage and you’ll need to call in the cavalry. If your hob still isn’t working after doing this, and you can’t discernibly pin it down to something else, then it may be time to call in a professional.

What to Do If Your Gas Hob Will Not Stay Lit

If you have cleaned your gas hob thoroughly, and they do not stay alight, then it could be down a couple of things. For example, an issue we get asked about is the burner being lit, but as soon as you release the dial, it goes out.

If this is happening to you, it is likely that there is a problem with the thermocouple. This isn’t easily fixed yourself and may require a new part.

Otherwise, keep on top of the cleaning and check for blockages. You can wipe the thermocouple yourself with a damp cloth, but if that doesn’t do the trick, then you may need to call for back-up.

What to Do If Your Gas Hob Will Not Stop Clicking

First things first, if your gas hob will not stop sparking, this is normally not dangerous. However, if you smell gas from the hob, you should turn off the mains supply’ valve immediately and contact your Landlord.

Again, the best and first thing you can do is clean the hob. This can often be caused by excess moisture or food debris interfering with the ignitor switch. You ‘ll want to make sure you’re really getting in there for this, so you may want to co-opt an old toothbrush or nylon scrub pad to make sure you’re cleaning it effectively.

If that doesn’t work, try and ensure that everything is aligned properly, a loose burner plate can cause the gas hob to click continually. Make sure everything is in the right place and if the problem still persists, you’ll need some professional help. It may be a case of a faulty part.

PROBLEM SOLVING

AND ACTION TO TAKE

To clean your gas hob, you need the following:

A microfibre cloth

A paper clip

Washing up liquid

Kitchen cleaner/bicarbonate of soda

 ELECTRIC HOBS

Circuit Keeps Tripping

There are two reasons which cause your electric hob to trip the circuit:

Overloaded circuitry: There might be several appliances connected to the same circuit which is causing an overload in the current. Remove all the other appliances, reset the breaker, and then switch on the hob. It should not trip. But if it still does, there might be a problem with the circuit breaker or damage in the wire insulation. Inform your Landlord.

Damaged power plug: It might be that the power plug of the hob is at fault; open the plug, check for loose connections and/or soot. Tighten the connection and clean it thoroughly

The Cooking Plate Does Not Heat Up

Another very common problem encountered while using an electric hob is that the cooking plate doesn’t heat up. This can due to a faulty heating element. The element might have shorted out, burned, or broken. You will need to disassemble and inspect the element for any visible signs of burns, distortions, or breaks. In all cases, you will need to inform your Landlord.

In a few circumstances, the cooking plates are ineffective because you might be utilizing pots and pans with uneven bases; instead, replace your old dented kitchenware with a new one

‘E’ Symbol Keeps Flashing

The E symbol is an indicator that a switch is being continuously pressed, even though you aren’t. This can occur due to dirt that has accumulated in the hob, resulting in a short circuit, or due to a faulty touchpad. You can clean the hob with a dry cloth. Additionally, if you have to use a damp cloth, use a hairdryer to dry the dampness before switching the hob back on.

GAS BOILERS

Common Problems With Boilers

Our central heating system is like hygiene – as long as it is okay we don’t notice it, but the minute there is a problem it becomes a real issue. No matter how well ordered our lives, a broken boiler and the accompanying lack of heating and hot water can plunge us into chaos, and quite often, misery.

While a broken boiler in the summer can be a real inconvenience, the majority of boiler breakdowns will occur at the start of the winter. For a few months the boilers have been inactive, and then when the weather turns colder, they are forced back into life and this is when expensive and inconvenient problems can arise. And of course, that is the time when everyone is experiencing problems so it could be a few days before an engineer can even get to see you.

Some common boiler problems can be solved without the need to call in a heating engineer, while others will require the services of a qualified and experienced professional. If in doubt, it’s always best to seek professional help from a reputable engineer. At least, using our guide, you will be able to identify many of the issues and then decide upon the best, and least expensive, course of action.

Here are the 10 most common problems you are likely to encounter:

No heat or hot water – potential causes include broken diaphragms and airlocks, failure of motorised valves, issues with the thermostat or low water levels.

Leaking and dripping – a variety of issues could cause your boiler to leak water. It will depend on where the water is leaking from to determine the cause.

Strange banging, whistling or gurgling noises – air in the system is a common cause, alternatively it could be that the water pressure is too low or it’s kettling.

Pilot light goes out – could be a broken thermocouple which is removing the gas supply to the pilot light, a draught blowing the pilot light out or a deposit built up in the pilot light.

Losing pressure – a water leak in the system is the most common reason for a loss of pressure. But it could also mean that the pressure relief valve needs replacing.

Frozen condensate pipe – Thawing a frozen condensate pipe should ideally be done by a qualified engineer.

Thermostat issues – if the thermostat is losing accuracy or turning the heating on/off when its not supposed to it might be time to invest in a newer, more energy efficient one.

Kettling – hearing a strange rumbling noise? When lime scale builds up on your boiler’s heat exchange the water flow is restricted. This water starts to heat and steam and the noise you get is referred to as kettling.

Radiators not getting hot – corroded pipework can cause sludge to gather in the system, preventing the free flow of hot water to the radiators. Chemically cleaning or flushing the system will remove these deposits.

Boiler keeps switching itself off – could be low water pressure, a problem with the thermostat or a lack of water flow due to a closed valve, air or the pump not circulating the water in the system properly.

RADIATORS

My radiator is cold at the top but hot at the bottom

If your radiator is not warming up at the top, you probably have air trapped inside. You can let the air out by bleeding the radiator with a radiator key. You can buy this from a DIY store. You can find out more by looking at this short video on how to bleed a radiator.

My radiator is cold at the bottom but hot at the top

You might have sludge or rust blocking your radiator or pipes. This is tricky to fix. So it's best to ask a Gas Safe registered engineer to take a look. They may need to power flush your central heating system to remove the blockage. After that, they may add an inhibitor solution to stop future build-up. Contact your Landlord.

My radiator is not getting hot

If your heating is on and other radiators are working fine, you may have stuck or frozen valves. These stop water getting into the radiator. Or, again, sludge or rust may be to blame. Look at this video to solve the most common problem. In some cases, there may be a bigger problem going back to your boiler. We recommend you ask a Gas Safe registered engineer to take a look. You might need to have your central heating system power flushed.

My radiator is making strange or loud noises

Noisy radiators aren't usually anything to worry about. A ticking or clicking sound is just the metal of the radiator expanding or contracting as it warms up or cools down. If the noise is coming from under the floor, it's probably the pipes expanding or contracting. You might also hear the radiator whistling if the water flow rate is too high. Try turning the radiator valve fully on. This should stop the whistle. Banging, clanking and gurgling sounds can be caused by air in the radiator. Bleeding your radiators could fix the problem. Some noises might be caused by loose pipes under the floorboards. If you think this is the case, it’s best to get a Gas Safe registered engineer to take a look.

My radiator is leaking

A radiator leak could be caused by several things, including a leaking valve or corrosion. If you notice a radiator leaking water, you should turn off the valves at each end. Use a bucket or towels to catch leaking water. Then contact you Landlord.

Electric radiators

CAUSE: The most common cause for electric heater not working is blown fuses. To check this, first unplug the device and check the fuse box of the house for blown fuses as well as tripped circuit breakers. If it is fuses or tripped, then what you can do is that you can replace the fuse or reset the circuit breakers if required. Now plug the appliance back in and switch it on. See if the problem has been resolved. If not, the following given points might prove useful. Another reason for electric heater not working could be due to the auto safety shut off feature which is provided in several heaters these days.  When heaters get too hot, then this feature shuts off the device for safety purposes. May be because of this feature your heater may not be working. So what you can do is that you can reset the feature by moving the power switch to the off position if the device does not turn back on. Unplug the device and let it cool down for 10-15 minutes.  Plug it back again and turn the switch on. Check the thermostat and see which level it is set at. If it is at an off position or a low temperature, then try turning it on a higher level. See if it starts working now. However keep an eye on it to check that it doesn’t stop working due to auto safety shut off feature. Also in some cases, the thermostat dial tends to get stuck or become faulty. Because of this reason too the electric heater may not work or not provide enough heat. Check the thermostat and if need be, get it replaced by contacting your Landlord..

Pest Prevention and the Methods of Pest Control

Preventing Pests

By far, the best way to protect your building is by integrating prevention techniques into your everyday practices. This is both a critical step and effective strategy when it comes to avoiding pests. Routine cleaning is a must, but there are also some specifics that can aid in deterring animals or insects. Here are some prevention methods to practice at your facility:

Remove any sources of food, water or shelter.

Store items in safe and enclosed containers.

Dispose of garbage regularly with a tightly closed lid.

Reduce clutter or areas where pests can hide.

Seal and close off any cracks or holes to eliminate outside entry.

Perform routine cleaning.

Infestation Identification

Pests are any animal or insect that can have a harmful effect on humans and living conditions. Their impact levels can range from a mere annoyance to a deadly disease. Here are some of the most common pests you may run into:

Flies

Ants

Birds

Rats

Mice

Mosquitos

Cockroaches

Bed bugs

Most of these animals are found in urban and rural locations. However, once a pest invades your living place, they can cause severe damages. Identifying a pest infestation can be done in a number of ways.For some, it simply involves seeing a mouse scurry across the floor; other times it’s not as clear-cut. Pests are attracted to several locations that can provide any of the following: food, water, shelter or all three. If you have a suspicion of infestation, be sure to check any areas of your facility that accommodate any of the three needs.

Pest Control Methods

Once you’ve identified a pest intrusion, it’s time to take immediate action. Pest control methods can fall into two categories: biological or chemical. Learn about these two tactics and what control techniques are available to better choose the right one for your home.

Biological pest control is the use of living organisms to help eliminate the infestation. This can be anything from predators to parasites to pathogens. One of the biggest advantages of natural methods is that they don’t involve the use of toxic chemicals. As a result, this method doesn’t harm humans or the environment. In addition, over time, pests don’t become resistant to the control solution. However,most biological methods are only feasible for small pest invasions like insects or plants, and they typically take some time to work.

Chemical pest control is the use of pesticides to destroy harmful insects organisms. These solutions are typically easier to find and use than biological methods. Also, most chemicals produce faster, if not, instant results upon application. Examples include repellants, which are solutions that deter pests that crawl or fly within your perimeter or insecticides, that are substances that are designed to kill insects. Despite their many advantages, these toxins can pose health and environment threats upon exposure, but most modern chemical’s effects are only temporary.

Set Traps and Bait

Mostly as a diagnostic measure throughout the year, set a few traps and bait stations indoors. A live trap is a humane and poison-free way to trap and release rodents while alerting you when they are finding entry into your home. The best live traps are chamber-type devices with a spring-loaded door that snaps shut when the mice enter in search of food. Avoid sticky trap designs, since mice have been known to chew their own feet in an effort to free themselves from the adhesive—these traps are by no means humane.

If you have no qualms about killing mice, then traditional spring traps are a good choice; they usually kill mice very quickly and without much pain to the creature.

A bait station contains poisonous, thirst-producing pellets that make the rodent seek water outdoors where it dies. It is much easier to catch one or two mice or rats at the start of an infestation than to deal with it after a whole colony has set up a home in your walls. Put any type of trap or rodent poison baits completely out of reach of children and pets.

With an active approach and the right products, you can ensure pests don’t get in the way of enjoying your home or facility. Routine monitoring and a quick response can go a long way in preventing and controlling pests.

ITS YOUR HOME, IT IS NOT A HOTEL, AND CERTAIN ACTIONS YOU CAN TAKE YOURSERF, IT IS ALSO PART OF ORDINARY HOME MANAGEMENT!

TOILETS,SINKS, SHOWERS, BATHS

!!!!DON’T USE CAUSTIC SODA!!!!!! IT WILL BURN THE DRAIN’S PIPES AND IT COULD COST YOU THOUSANDS OF POUNDS!!!

CLEAN THE TOILET WITH BICARBONATE OF SODA AND VINEGAR, TOO, OR SUITABLE PRODUCTS!

Toilets can quickly look grotty but if, like us, you're always on the look-out for an alternative to even the best toilet cleaners try this: make a mixture of equal parts of bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar, pour it into and around the toilet, using a toilet brush to push it into the space beneath the rim. Leave for at least 15 minutes, give it a good scrub then flush. Repeat regularly for a sparkling toilet.

MAKE SHOWER HEADS SPARKLE

Shower heads can quickly become blocked and dulled by limescale, especially in hard water areas (a clue might be that water doesn't come out of every jet, comes out in odd directions or, if the shower hasn't been used for a prolonged period, doesn't come out at all, then explodes off the fitting.

Fuss-free and effective fix to clean a shower head quickly? Remove it and put it into a plastic bag (sandwich bags are good) or bowl and cover with distilled vinegar. Shower head really encrusted? Add a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, too. You can secure the top of the bag with an elastic bag (use this trick if the shower head is fixed or you can't get it off); this also disguises the smell somewhat. Leave it for an hour, remove and turn the shower on. The flow should be restored and the shower head will sparkle.

SHOWER-SINK-BATH

Knowing how to unclog a shower drain pipe will save you from waiting for a plumber to sort out your problem – and the cost that comes with calling someone in rather than doing it yourself.

Over time, hair and soap scum can block the shower drain with the result that the water from the shower doesn’t drain as it should, and fills the pan instead. Standing in scummy water doesn’t make showering the refreshing experience it should be, and leaves the pan gunky afterwards – and you know your problem is only going to get worse with the overflow of water on to the bathroom floor a potential consequence.

While being savvy about how to clean a shower thoroughly is going to help keep the drain clear, unclogging can be a necessary – and only mildly icky – task. Hot water, or baking soda and vinegar can come to your rescue, and you can take the advice of the experts and use a snake or plunger, too..

TOILET

A plunger, much like you'd use to unblock a toilet, can also come in useful when you’re wondering how to unclog a shower drain. ‘When used properly, the flat cup works to create a vacuum over the drain and dislodge the clog at hand:

1. Remove the drain cover and apply petroleum jelly to the plunger's edge – this will help secure the seal.

2. Put the plunger cup over the drain opening and run the shower until enough water covers the lip of the plunger.

3. Next, quickly move the plunger rapidly to bring up the clog. You may have to do this for several minutes.

4. Test run the shower to see that water flows down smoothly before reattaching the drain cover.

MOULD AND HUMIDITY

Humidity levels of 60% RH or higher form the best conditions for mould to grow. When high humidity and moisture inside a room combine, mould can develop. Although mould thrives in warm conditions, moisture is important for its growth. Areas like bathrooms and kitchens are more prone to mould as this is where humidity is usually highest. You hang dry clothes inside, you get humidity!

Mould spores are found everywhere in our environment as they are natural components of the air. Mould also gets into our living and working spaces, carried by our clothing and through ventilation. But it is only with ideal climatic conditions that this most annoying housemate can settle in permanently in our home and infest walls or other items.

The regular monitoring of the relative humidity and room temperature with a thermo-hygrometer, plus targeted heating and ventilation can help prevent mould growth.

How to prevent mould

Whether the causes of mould and moisture-laden rooms are due to building defects (e.g. poor workmanship), or water damage (e.g. leaking gutters), the first step to take is to try to solve the problem by informing your landlord to seek the professional help of an expert.

Otherwise, targeted ventilation and heating are the best way to regulate humidity and temperature levels inside rooms. However, anyone who is not consistent enough in his/her approach may encourage mould growth.

An indispensable instrument that may help you with this task is a thermo-hygrometer. This device displays both values for temperature and humidity and it helps you to identify the right time to ventilate you home or adjust the thermostat. A room temperature of 18 – 22 ° C and a relative humidity of 40% – 60% is perceived by most people as pleasant and it is also ideal for the fabric of the building.

Check the values in the living room and bedrooms regularly to reduce the risk of mould.

Avoiding mould: correct ventilation

Moisture levels above 60% favour the growth of mould fungi. Now it is time to open the windows for a rapid ventilation, e.g. in bursts. This will send the moisture-laden air out whilst allowing fresh air to enter the building, thus allowing a complete exchange of air. Ventilation is by far the most effective way to avoid mould.

Depending on the season, the air outside can be sometimes drier and sometimes wetter than the one indoors. You can also ventilate your home on a raining day to reduce the relative humidity in your rooms when the outside temperature is low, as cold air can only absorb little moisture, whilst warm air absorbs much more.

When cool air from the outside enters the house and gets heated, it can absorb more moisture and reduce the relative humidity in the rooms. It is important to keep an eye on the interaction between temperature and humidity. This job can be made easy with the help of a wireless thermo-hygrometer with ventilation recommendations. This instrument measures the outdoor climate in addition to the indoor climate and compares the values, so it is an indispensable tool for mastering correct ventilation.

Another important factor on how to ventilate correctly is to consider what the room is used for. After showering or bathing, for example, ventilation with a window wide open is always recommended in order to send the moisture outside via the shortest route.

Further tips on correct ventilation are, for example, to ventilate unused rooms regularly or to remove water droplets after showering by drying the bathroom walls with a towel or a squeegee.